At the heart of South America, Paraguay is a bewildering blend of contrasts. The colonial capital, Asunción, now has a burgeoning bar and café scene, while its eastern counterpart, Ciudad del Este, is a neon-swathed boomtown. Yet dig a little deeper and a different picture emerges: Jesuit ruins echo with centuries of history, rural families keep craft traditions alive and everything stops as people share a leisurely drink of tereré. And beyond lies the country's inimitable natural beauty, from butterfly-thronged tropical forests to the rolling fields of the campo and the wild wetlands of the Chaco.
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